Rule 1. Don't abruptly change direction while walking or abruptly stop (even if you see something in a shop that you want to check out, or check out your map, you cannot suddenly stop, you must double back or enter a safe zone, i.e. restaurant, alley, sidewalk if available)
Rule 2. Don't wait for a clearing in the traffic, just walk (the Hanoians have perfected the art of driving around you without colliding with each other, an impressive display of orchestrated chaos).
Rule 3. If you encounter a stop light, which is pretty rare, understand it is only a suggestion, one that is rarely heeded.
Rule 4. You will hearing incessant beeping and honking from the motorbikes and cars while walking on the street, this is mostly a communication tool, not an aggressive tactic. The honking might be directed at you but you must not turn around to verify, (see rule 1).
Rule 5. Early AM and later evening the sidewalks are pretty much free of motorbikes, all they contain are mini-restaurants, food stands, a whole bunch of people, some trash and a lot of foreigners stopping to look at their maps. But, from late morning through early evening the sidewalks are parking spots for the millions of motorbikes in this city which makes them nearly impassable, hence the need to walk on the street (see rule 1 and 4).
So, these are the basic rules we have learned on how to survive (literally) in Hanoi, I have to say that I am looking forward to spending some relaxing time in the less chaotic towns in northern Laos and northern Thailand before moving on to the next big city, Bangkok next week.
Sitting at a rooftop café in the Old Quarter, drinking Hanoi beer
Coffee and Hot Chocolate on walking tour in Old Quarter
Entrance to Temple in Old Quarter
Reunited in SE Asia
Fish soup, with added peppers for Adam
Sounds exciting (and a little terrifying). But mostly just sounds like a fun adventure.
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